Continuing our Dishing the Dirt series, we feature Bali-based chefs Arnaud Hauchon of Herbivore, one of our 1% partners, and Eelke Plasmeijer of Locavore NXT. Both part of the same visionary restaurant family, many see them as more than just chefs, but catalysts for change. Guided by Oliver Truesdale-Jutras, a member of ZFPA’s board of directors, the conversation explores the philosophies that drive their work and their bold vision for the future of food.

“(For chefs) So sometimes it’s good to have conversations like this, although they are very casual, but it’s just to think about what we are doing, and why we are doing it, and if we should keep doing it.”
– Eelke

At Herbivore, chef Arnaud Hauchon crafts an “all flora, no fauna” dining experience designed to impress guests of all dietary backgrounds. With an open kitchen layout, chefs are attuned to immediate verbal and non-verbal feedback, deepening their connection to each plate and its purpose. Just across town, Locavore NXT brings the concept of locality to life—not just through produce, but in every element, from furniture to cultural storytelling. Chef Eelke Plasmeijer invites diners to explore Indonesia’s rich foodways with curiosity and care, offering a deep dive into the environmental and cultural threads that shape the future of food.

So, what was the topic of their discussion?

The “New” and Real Luxury

One of the central themes in the conversation with chef Arnaud was the evolving definition of luxury in food. For Arnaud, true luxury lies in food grown in soil—something increasingly rare in the face of climate change and environmental degradation. While luxury has often been associated with exclusivity, like foie gras or Wagyu, Arnaud and his peers argue that it should instead be defined by nourishment, sustainability, and connection.

@restaurantherbivore

The irony is stark: soil-grown food, once abundant, is now under threat, as biodiversity declines and agricultural homogeneity rises. “We have to nurture where it hurts,” Arnaud emphasizes, urging the industry to embed deeper values into food—values that bring meaning, connection, and ultimately, more pleasure to the act of eating.

“Yeah, you probably have some climate anxiety. Tonight you sit, and we will nurture this climate anxiety, and we will give you an opportunity that is better than the original. I will prove (to) you that you don’t need to have this (destructive) kind of luxury to still feel you can treat yourself.” – Arnaud

At a time when recreational and urban farming are on the rise, it's easy to romanticize the practice—focusing only on its aesthetic and therapeutic appeal. But as chef Arnaud reminds us, real farming is hard, often invisible work. And it’s also deeply tied to land, labor, and ecological resilience. It's this deeper, messier side of food production that needs our attention—and respect—if we’re serious about building a sustainable future.

Arnaud also believes that becoming a farmer or harvester is not only an ideal starting point for a chef—but perhaps a valuable experience for everyone. Immersing oneself in the realities of soil, seasons, and manual labor reveals the true cost of producing wholesome food. In his view, it’s this time, care, and physical effort—not rarity or branding—that should define the value of food. When we reconnect with where food comes from, we also begin to redefine what makes it truly worth savoring. This article by Beth Hoffman reiterates Arnaud’s message whereby she mentions “if all consumers see are romantic images of farms, we learn nothing of the true financial, social and environmental complexities of farming”.

Source: @chefarnaudhauchon @restaurantherbivore

“If they understand soil, and they understand farmers, they will be better chefs, much better chefs.” – Arnaud

While Eelke sees environmental resilience as a welcome outcome of his sourcing practices, his choices are driven by instinct—an innate resistance to food grown in unnatural or unsustainable conditions. He places high value on traditionally farmed and semi-wild ingredients, where human interference is minimal and nature’s rhythms are respected. In his view, sourcing native crops grown in the right kind of soil isn’t just responsible—it’s the future. Or as he puts it, “It will be the new black.”

Courtesy of Locavore NXT

Real luxury, as Arnaud and Eelke suggests, lies not in rarity or price tags, but in soil, biodiversity, and nature’s abundance. Reframing our perception of luxury—from Wagyu beef to golden beets—may seem like a stretch, but this shift in mindset is essential. When chefs embrace these values, curate menus that protect ecological prosperity, and embed meaning into every dish, they offer guests more than a meal. They offer comfort—the kind that comes from knowing their choices are aligned with the well-being of the planet.

Reimagining Food Luxury

Having redefined what true luxury in food means, the next challenge is making it accessible and equitable. Food democracy—the call for broader access and shared benefits from the food system—remains far from reality. In many places, we're still struggling to secure food as a basic human right, let alone ensure access to regenerative goods that nourish people, ecosystems, and cultures alike.

Yet, Arnaud remains hopeful. “We need pioneers,” he insists—individuals and communities willing to push the boundaries of what’s possible. He points to initiatives like Astungkara Way, founded by his friend Tanguy, as powerful examples of experimental farming models that deserve more attention and support. Building awareness and demand for these approaches is not just important—it’s urgent.

Whether driven by climate change or industrialization, the reality of food production is shifting rapidly. Eelke warns that even foraging for medicinal herbs—a practice deeply rooted in traditional knowledge—may no longer be possible in the near future. At the same time, the growing global preference for ultra-processed foods is having clear consequences on public health. As Oliver wryly observes, “You’ll let go of traditions like eating bitter herbs every morning pretty quickly in the face of Honey Nut Cheerios.”

This cultural shift isn’t just about convenience—it’s contributing to the disappearance of nutrient-dense, wholesome food that truly nourishes us. The solution? Collective action to increase access to healthy, regenerative food—and to make that access a widespread public demand.

Whether it’s us at ZFPA working to make regenerative produce more financially viable and publicly desirable, or Arnaud’s vision of placing Herbivore at the heart of a thriving garden, increasing access to food grown in healthy soil is a crucial step toward achieving food democracy. It’s about creating systems where nourishment, sustainability, and equity go hand in hand—and where good food is a right, not a privilege.

“Show, Don’t Tell”

Eelke and his partner Ray developed this Bullshit Bingo “game” for themselves, to avoid using certain jargons that have become widely cliched in the hospitality sector. Just like Arnaud refuses to adopt the “vegetarian restaurant” label, a better way to deliver their message and ideas is through tangible actions and results. “Show, Don’t Tell” being their motto, demonstrated how good food can be both tasty and environmentally friendly.

Buzzwords based on WWF Guide to Greenwashing

Despite Eelke’s recent dissonance with Locavore NXT’s tropical brutalist aesthetic—where nature seems to reclaim the space day by day—there’s something poetic in that tension. It subtly reflects the reality that our food system is broken, yet nature, if allowed to reintegrate, holds the power to reshape and restore it. This interplay aligns with the core principles of brutalism: honesty, rawness, and a commitment to social—and in this case, environmental—purpose. From the Mushroom Chamber to the rooftop Food Jungle, the architecture and ecosystem of Locavore NXT itself speak to the scale and ambition of their vision.

Courtesy of Locavore NXT

Final Thoughts

As echoed in Eelke’s presentation at the Future of Food symposium during the Kita Food Festival, the future of restaurants may well follow a model like Locavore NXT—adapted to whatever scale possible. Both Arnaud and Eelke are driven by a deep desire for change, whether through shifting mindsets or reimagining the design and function of restaurants to serve the environment as much as the diner. Their mission is clear and urgent: to create food systems that nourish the planet and people alike—and, in their own words, to “Unf** the Future.”